Friday, August 4, 2017

Handloom Saree Production Process

IKAT Weaving Process of Orissa : 

Orissa at one time called "UTKAL", the place that is known for perfection of workmanship and specialty. It groups various and brilliant conventional expressions and specialties like woven materials, pattachitra, applique, silver filigree, and wood create and so on., which no uncertainty have picked up qualification of it's possess, broadly and globally. Of all these, history of woven material specialty is extended long back to the past. Much have been talked and till more have been composed about the hand woven material specialty of Orissa. The specialty of IKAT weaving is rehearsed, over hundreds of years, and the ability is being acquired, through eras. The Orissa IKAT weaving is a considerably more established custom that Andhra Pradesh or Gujarat, and their more well known themes in that capacity are a stylised fish and the rudraksh dot. Here the shading is developed string by string. The "Ikats" of Orissa stand aside from the rest other "Ikat" customs because of the special outline extend that they have, got from nature and religious topics. Accordingly while Ikats of Orissa have a wide scope of blooms, trellis designs, creatures, divine beings and goddesses and pictures from day to day life as their themes, most other ikat designs have either geometric or diffused dynamic shapes as their themes. The fine idea of these hard to-weave themes is conceivable due to 
the fine tying and coloring aptitudes and from that point weaving abilities of the weavers of Orissa who try not to permit any bends in these themes over the span of weaving. 5.2 Ikat Process in

 handloom cotton saree


Khandua weaving Area: th Tie and color strategy on silk was in presence at this range in the 18 century. The created strategy and different confirmations propose that the procedures was existing in the the territory even a couple of hundreds of years prior, might be in the 12 or the 13 century, however its particular say is discovered just in 1719 A.D. which demonstrates its essence prior to that date at the town Kenduli from where the Gaudia Patra weavers of Nuapatna appear to have come to 
this present focus. 

Tie and Dye method on cotton is in presence in Nuapatna (Tigiria) territory began in th the 20 century. The method in Nuapatna has achieved an abnormal state of advancement and Craftsmanship. In weaving of silk textures now and again cotton yarn us utilized as a part of outskirt twist Ikat and in Pallav, weft ikat. The strategy produces themes in their common bend frame furthermore, geometrical themes are seldom utilized. The present routine with regards to the tie and color method at Tigiria and Badamba is the result of the endeavors of one mainstream identity named Shri Arjun Subudi and his child 

Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 

Shri Banchani Das who, liberally educated the craftsmanship to each individual who moved toward him also, helped the weavers without expecting any arrival from them. Shri Arjun subudi is no increasingly and that the neighborhood have named a nearby school on his name. 

Raw-material utilized for Production : 

The deep rooted custom of Ikat weaving is being survived today at the talented hands of the inside provincial handloom weavers and that Ikat procedure of weaving in the diverse parts of Cuttack locale is brought for the sake of "KHANDUA". The diverse stages engaged with the procedure of generation of Khandua Saree and textures can be compressed as take after: Disintegration of dyestuffs : According to the coveted shade rate and material weight to be colored, weight of dyestuff is computed and breaks down in warm water to frame a glue and afterward weakened with poured bubbling water up to a deliberate amount. 

Dye Bath : Dye shower (still vessel) is set at 40 C roughly with M: L (material to alcohol proportion) 

of 1: 20. The volume of color arrangement is deducted after computation of alcohol proportion. Chemicals like 10% of Glauber's salt, 1 2 % cold acidic acids are included independently. 

Preparation of material : 

The tied silk yarn is wetted in water for 4 6 hours with 0.5 1% of TR oil and crushed delicately before section to color shower. This is vital on the grounds that uneven shade will be produced if the material is not legitimately wetted. 

Dyeing Process : 

The material in hank shape went into the color shower with wanted alcohol, color  Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa arrangement, Glauber's salt and acidic corrosive at 40 C. The temperature is bit by bit expanded  to 90 to 95 c inside 45 minutes. The material is run ceaselessly by steel pole for promote 45 minutes. For powerful weariness 1% of formic corrosive is included and labored for 15 minutes. After entire depletion, the material is pulled back, crushed somewhat, washed in warm water took after by frosty water at that point crushed dried in outside. However for better quickness properties winch kicking the bucket machines of 10kg limit ought to be presented here. Here the ability of the dyer/weaver is particularly basic to get the coveted plan which woven in the texture 

Winding : 
The way toward weaving includes various exercises like winding, twisting plan setting drafting, marking and weaving. The craftsmans utilized conventional charakha for winding the yarn in notai or bobbin. There is no winding M/C. for this procedure for the most part done by the women. They get Rs. 3.00 for winding a hank. 

Warp Preparation : 
In the wake of getting silk yarn (2 utilize mulberry silk) by the weavers the yarn is absorbed cool water for no less than 12 hours before degumming. For the most part, for generation of 16 bits of sari, 2 Kgs of silk yarn is required. At that point Degumming is completed for 1 hr. In the wake of flushing the yarn in high temp water and afterward in icy water, the yarn is colored with craved shade. At that point 

stick confine winding (Hank stand or move what's more, stick pen or Natai) of colored yarn is done which takes 8-10 days. The hanks so acquired are gone through estimating process (utilizing, browned rice) and twisted to a stick confine, which takes facilitate 8-10days. The yarn on the stick confine is dried. This stick confine process is excessively difficult, it adds a great deal to the cost of the item. 

Programmed winders can be acquainted with carry out this occupation, first in exploratory premise 
and after that in business premise till subgrouping of ikat process. 

Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 17 Utilizing even twisting Drum 

done the twisting procedure: 
This procedure takes around 4 days. 
Subsequent to getting the twist and the twist bar, the Drafting and gouging forms are taken up which takes 2 days. At that point the twist is taken to the linger and different courses of action 
for example, heald tie-up, Harnessing of shaded yarn for fringe utilizing, dobby/jacquard are completed on the linger which take 4 days. 

Weft arrangement : 
Mulberry charkha silk (fiber Malda) are utilized for weft. For16pcs. Of sari, the 
weaver get yarn around 5Kgs. be that as it may, the forms are done in staged way. In the bunch, for outlining the sari, Tie and Dye is the customary procedure. For getting outline noticeably and correct to the coveted theme, the weft yarn is handled in staged way, i.e. for 2 pcs. 600 gms and for 4pcs-1200 gms). The weft yarn is accessible in single frame in the market. Along these lines, yarn is first utilized to 3-4 strings by winding onto a stick confine in two phases, which takes 5-8 days. At that point the yarn turned in a nearby procedure, which takes one day. The procedure took after here is 
absolutely conventional, manual and difficult moreover. It is fascinating that however the utilized weft yarn at display is accessible in the open market, these weavers don't utilize it so as to 18 Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa stay away from duplication in nature of crude material. Employing or mixing process has sufficient degree for corruption in the nature of silk yarn, which is not seen in the bare eye. Assuming low quality silk yarn is blended in this employing procedure, juts in the resultant yarn create pilling impact amid end utilize. In this manner it is smarter to acquire single yarn in immaculate shape. Be that as it may programmed utilizing machine here likewise can be tentatively acquainted with lessen the as well much extra work cost. The yarn is absorbed water for 8-10hrs preceding degumming. The degumming is done for 1 hr. taken after by flushing with high temp water and afterward cool water. At that point yarn is left to dry inside one two days. The yarn is again made to 2 utilize by twisting on to a stick confine which takes two days 
what's more, after that the yarn treated with estimating material (seared rice-lia) in a day and again employed by rewinding on to a stick confine which likewise takes one day and afterward left to dry. 

 Manual Tying Process : 
The yarn is then taken for planning of tie and color with the assistance of these patta (for guaranteeing the width and length of the coveted texture) and wooden casing. The yarn is organized 
in kera shape in the wooden edge and tied with wound yarn the parts, which should be left white in the plan. This process is rehashed relying on the number of hues required in the outline. At that point kicking the bucket of yarn is done. Generally Immediate, Acid and Metal complex dyestuffs are utilized as a part of the bunch amid tie and color process. However Metal complex colors are presently generally utilized for its great quickness properties and extensive variety of offers. All 
dyestuffs are water-dissolvable. As the name demonstrates, metal part is fused into 
Corrosive colors to frame Metal complex colors. Biting the dust is completed in acidic shower. 
Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 19 In Nuapatna the weavers have a routine with regards to doing the tie-coloring on the Weft i.e Bharani in their nearby dialect. The Warp shaft yarn is for the most part a solitary shading plain colored one, which is done autonomously at every single family unit. However, the fundamental workmanship and expertise is in producing a decent splash-color outline on the weft. The Tie and Dye action for some of the standard ordinary customary themes are being polished by all the weaver family units yet the movement of tie and color for some particular outlines has been taken up by people as an all day deal with cost premise. There are 20 diverse selective Warp dyers and 20 Different Wef

Cause and History of Khandua Sarees

Assessment of Khandua group : 

This group is the single biggest place in the State where there are 10000 weavers 

with around 6000 weavers. The specialty of weaving of Nuapatna is over 800 year old 

what's more, is connected with sanctuary of Lord Jagannath at Puri as couple of weavers, particularly weave 

texture for Lord Jagannath for various religious event according to request of Jagannath 

Sanctuary Administration. Ruler Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra wear Khandua silk 

sari of uncommon plan with additional vast particular, every day for various "BESA" according to 

rule of sanctuary organization. The shading mixes of these tie - and - color saris 

show the moral feeling of life. Yellow shaded ikat texture for Lord Jagannath symbolize 

salvation, green for Balabhadra symbolizing life and red for Subhadra implying power or 

shakti. The "BESA" of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra is particularly celebrated and 

all aficionados and guests of World see the BESA. Fans offer Khandua silk sari to Lord 

Jagannath for this distinctive BESA. 

Thomas Motte went to this group (Nuapatna) in 1766 AD and gave a record of 

weavers weaving silk tie and color textures including Gitagovinda saris. The tie and color 

method in Nuapatna has achieved an abnormal state of advancement and craftsmanship 

th amid 20 century. In weaving of silk textures a few times cotton yarn is utilized as a part of fringe 

twist Ikat and pallu weft Ikat. The procedure produces themes in their characteristic bend frame 

furthermore, geometrical themes are once in a while utilized. 

2.2 History of Khandua : 

As indicated by "Madala Panji" of Lord Jaganath 

The tie and color procedure here, according to history has a place with Ramchandra King 

th of Puri in 1719 A.D. and furthermore Jaydev the colossal artist. Amid 12 century, Jaydev sought to 

offer this Gitagovind to Lord Jaganath .He discover the silk texture as a medium. He chose to 

compose the verses of Gita Govind utilizing the tie and color procedure at this town Kenduli Birth 

place of Jaydev) and supported them to Lord Jaganath ,Balabhadra and Devi subhadra. 

The specialty of weaving around there is over 800 years of age and is connected with the sanctuary of 

Master Jagannath at Puri. Scarcely any weavers of Nuapatna particularly weave fabric for the Lord at 

the sanctuary. This has been the training since eras and even as on date, there are 

two joint groups of Madan Naha and Sudam Guin, who particularly weave Silk texture for 

the Lord of Puri and for utilization at different religious purposes and at other 

sanctuaries. 

4 Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 

In course of time the lord issued a request to supply these textures to the weavers of 

Nuapatna and adjacent region. From that point forward the silk texture is provided to the puri sanctuary as 

 Handloom Saree

Khandua with various plans. Khandua sarees are only produced in 

Badamba and Tigiria pieces. There are 10,000 weavers out of which 80 % weavers are the 

producers of khandua saree. Khundua saree are made with striking themes of elephant, 

lions, deer's and lotus in brilliant corrosive shading in tie and dye.It is exceptionally maturity and thses are 

utilized by Jaganath sanctuary, Puri for the deties of Jaganath , balabhadra and Subhadra. 

Some extraordinary weavers produced calligraphy on the textures with Gita Govinda and 

Das avtar. Amid creation of these textures they watch entirely a few standards like 

fasting and not taking non-vegetable sustenance, as it is unmistakably related with otherworldly exercises. 

The Rath yatra of puri is a world acclaimed religious work on, amid which the icons 

of Lord Jagannath, Balbadra and Subadra are taken out on a parade on three 

diverse raths from the fundamental sanctuary to the Gundicha sanctuary, (i.e. the In laws place of the 

master) for a time of a week and after that they are reclaimed to the premises of the fundamental 

sanctuary. The Raths on which the parade is performed are constructing over again from particular 

wood consistently. The Raths are secured and embellished with vivid plain silk material, 

which is for the most part, weaved from the Nuapatna and close-by territory.
Visit to Bye Handloom Cotton Saree  

IKAT SAREES - Odisha Ikat Sarees are Unique and Traditional

The strategy of ikat is the tie and color process which have streamed down from the Indonesian culture. Weaving in this innovation began in Odisha and, as saying goes, the weavers executed this innovation from Gujarat`s Potala area. In spite of the fact that Odisha has received this procedure yet it has its own style and conventional plans. The ikat strategy depends on tie and color method. This is an exceptionally unpredictable technique and is done physically.

In ikat strategy the yarn is liable to tying in arrangements and coloring the required territories in the required shading. This strategy is very not the same as the technique received in States like Gujarat and Rajasthan. In Odisha, by this strategy the color drenches into the uncovered parts and the tied parceled are left from the coloring impact. Therefore, you have a deliberate grouping in the yarn which is put to weaving. This grouping is a biased plan of the weaver. This consecutive tie and color strategy enables the weaver to frame the outlines in different hues.

 handloom saree


The weaver instigates the plan by the twist or weft or by both. On the off chance that it is just twist or weft it is called single ikat and if both it is called twofold ikat. The situating of the strings is fundamental and thusly needs most extreme care and must be with no defect. The murky impact is normally inferred by utilizing a yarn with fine checks amid tie and color process. The twofold ikat outlines are additionally alluded as Patola saris.

The ikat outline of Odisha is for the most part extravagant examples yet additionally have plans of creatures, angle conch, and so on. Cotton ikat saris regularly accompany geometrical diagram however the stylish theme in ikat saris are the elephants, deer, parrot, nabagunjara, lotus and different blooms, stars and creepers. These themes are found in cotton and in addition silk ikat saris. Each ikat sari is a superb bit of workmanship woven by the Odisha skilled workers.

Ikat saris are for the most part colored in blue, red, yellow and maroon hues. The State is universally known for its eminent handloom weavings, princely hues, conventional themes and quality yarns, in its saris. All the handloom saris have a partiality to the Jagannath dham culture as the saris and texture are frequently utilized by the Hindu sacrosanct God. In the long run, the themes and examples with hues have experienced a change depending generally on the essence of the cutting edge purchasers.

Odisha ikat silk saris have fine tally silk yarns, regularly metallic complete and colored to flawlessness. The indigenously obtained silk yarns are most appropriate for these saris and have an amazing completion.

Khandua Saree - The Pride Of Odisha

Khandua Saree, a well known assortment of silk Sarees, which is fabricated in Nuapatna in Cuttack area, has properly been known as the Pride of Odisha. The starting point of this Saree, which is committed to Lord Jagannath of Puri Dham, a holy Hindu journey, goes back to twelfth century. Khandua Saree is an exemplary case of hand weaving, in which customary wooden weavers used to weave these impeccable and masterful pieces, out of immaculate tussar yarn created by worm.

The town of Nuapatna is committed to keep this convention alive, alongside the help of the Odisha government, partnerships, society and private division as well. Some co agent social orders are occupied with development of worms to satisfy the prerequisites of the yarn for the weavers. The yarn delivered here is subjected to stringent quality tests, which represents the worldwide notoriety of trust and nature of these items. Accordingly, weavers can deliver these prominent fantastic Khandua Sarees in differing hues and outlines.

Khandua Saree is broadly acclaimed for its "Ikat" or "Bandha", a creative outline having its underlying foundations in the way of life of Odisha. The Saree is accessible in hues like red, maroon, yellow and cream and has wonderful fringes and anchals. Anchal is the most exquisite piece of the Saree. Other than being valued by specialists and architects everywhere throughout the globe, the Saree is decorated by Odissi artists who perform in India and abroad. Its fame can be judged from the way that the National Handloom Expo was once named after it.

With its notoriety achieving extraordinary statures over some undefined time frame, the customary weaving families have begun making theories Sarees in light of current examples and additionally tweaked plans. These outlines incorporate assortments of blooms, elephants and geometrical structures. Another superb component of Khandua Saree is its light weight; scarcely 300 g. Khandua Saree has turned into an image of the interesting mix of custom and advancement, which makes it ideal for the cutting edge age.

The Saree can be supplies globally, for which brokers can connect with them at their site. To get specially crafted plans, shading and quality in Khandua Saree, you can contact the Orissa Handloom Weavers Corporation.
More Saree Visit Hand Loom Saree

World Famous Sarees made in Odisha

Sambalpuri Saree : It is a customary handwoven Ikkat sari or saree where in the twist and the weft are creatively colored before weaving. It is created in the Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur, Balangir area, Boudh District of Odisha. The saree is a conventional female piece of clothing in the Indian Subcontinent comprising of a portion of unstitched material extending from four to nine meters long that is hung over the body in different styles .

Kotpad Sarees : Kotpad is a place , a piece headquarter on the guests of Chattisgarh and Odisha in Koraput region ,around 80Km from Koraput region headquarter .While this is well known for kotpad sarees , the place is additionally acclaimed rice and craftsmanship and art The kotpad sarees have expedited more noteworthy consideration the place . The weavers sew the dress materials utilizing common color to shading them . The color is produced using the concentrates from the underlying foundations of a tree.

Nuapatna Saree : Nuapatna is celebrated for Khandua Silk and Ikat sarees.

Bomkai saree : Bomkai saree is named after a residential community Bomkai where it is Produced .Unlike Sambalpuri Sarees , these sarees additionally have touches of ikat work. Bomkai sarees highlight crochet adornment outskirts and pallu.

Bapta Saree : Bapta is fundamentally a plan of the celebrated Sambalpuri sari. The inventiveness of the saris is its `Baandha` or `Ikat`. This a strategy of splash-color of yarns by which you infer at a settled example.



Odisha IKAT Sarees : There are distinctive IKAT Sarees however Odisha ikat silk saris have fine check silk yarns, ordinarily metallic complete and colored to flawlessness. The indigenously acquired silk yarns are most appropriate for these saris and have an incredible wrap up.

Pasapalli Saree : Pasapalli is one of the few variations of Sambalpuri sari. Pasapalli sari is a hand woven sari made of silk texture and has an excellent and restrictive `aanchal`. Pasapalli sari is woven basically in places like Sonepur, Barpali and Baunshri.

Khandua saree : Khandua sari , "The pride of Odisha "is a well known sari made of silk. The saree is weaved in Nuapatna, in the locale of Cuttack. This Khandua sari is utilized by Lord Jagannath of Puri Dham a standout amongst the most favorable place for Hindus. An extremely antiquated progress however, the sari is given to the Lord from sixteenth century, as the conviction goes. Be that as it may, its beginning goes back to the twelfth century.

Silk Khandua Handloom Saree