Friday, August 4, 2017
Handloom Saree Production Process
IKAT Weaving Process of Orissa :
Orissa at one time called "UTKAL", the place that is known for perfection of workmanship and specialty. It groups various and brilliant conventional expressions and specialties like woven materials, pattachitra, applique, silver filigree, and wood create and so on., which no uncertainty have picked up qualification of it's possess, broadly and globally. Of all these, history of woven material specialty is extended long back to the past. Much have been talked and till more have been composed about the hand woven material specialty of Orissa. The specialty of IKAT weaving is rehearsed, over hundreds of years, and the ability is being acquired, through eras. The Orissa IKAT weaving is a considerably more established custom that Andhra Pradesh or Gujarat, and their more well known themes in that capacity are a stylised fish and the rudraksh dot. Here the shading is developed string by string. The "Ikats" of Orissa stand aside from the rest other "Ikat" customs because of the special outline extend that they have, got from nature and religious topics. Accordingly while Ikats of Orissa have a wide scope of blooms, trellis designs, creatures, divine beings and goddesses and pictures from day to day life as their themes, most other ikat designs have either geometric or diffused dynamic shapes as their themes. The fine idea of these hard to-weave themes is conceivable due to
the fine tying and coloring aptitudes and from that point weaving abilities of the weavers of Orissa who try not to permit any bends in these themes over the span of weaving. 5.2 Ikat Process in
Khandua weaving Area: th Tie and color strategy on silk was in presence at this range in the 18 century. The created strategy and different confirmations propose that the procedures was existing in the the territory even a couple of hundreds of years prior, might be in the 12 or the 13 century, however its particular say is discovered just in 1719 A.D. which demonstrates its essence prior to that date at the town Kenduli from where the Gaudia Patra weavers of Nuapatna appear to have come to
this present focus.
Tie and Dye method on cotton is in presence in Nuapatna (Tigiria) territory began in th the 20 century. The method in Nuapatna has achieved an abnormal state of advancement and Craftsmanship. In weaving of silk textures now and again cotton yarn us utilized as a part of outskirt twist Ikat and in Pallav, weft ikat. The strategy produces themes in their common bend frame furthermore, geometrical themes are seldom utilized. The present routine with regards to the tie and color method at Tigiria and Badamba is the result of the endeavors of one mainstream identity named Shri Arjun Subudi and his child
Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa
Shri Banchani Das who, liberally educated the craftsmanship to each individual who moved toward him also, helped the weavers without expecting any arrival from them. Shri Arjun subudi is no increasingly and that the neighborhood have named a nearby school on his name.
Raw-material utilized for Production :
The deep rooted custom of Ikat weaving is being survived today at the talented hands of the inside provincial handloom weavers and that Ikat procedure of weaving in the diverse parts of Cuttack locale is brought for the sake of "KHANDUA". The diverse stages engaged with the procedure of generation of Khandua Saree and textures can be compressed as take after: Disintegration of dyestuffs : According to the coveted shade rate and material weight to be colored, weight of dyestuff is computed and breaks down in warm water to frame a glue and afterward weakened with poured bubbling water up to a deliberate amount.
Dye Bath : Dye shower (still vessel) is set at 40 C roughly with M: L (material to alcohol proportion)
of 1: 20. The volume of color arrangement is deducted after computation of alcohol proportion. Chemicals like 10% of Glauber's salt, 1 2 % cold acidic acids are included independently.
Preparation of material :
The tied silk yarn is wetted in water for 4 6 hours with 0.5 1% of TR oil and crushed delicately before section to color shower. This is vital on the grounds that uneven shade will be produced if the material is not legitimately wetted.
Dyeing Process :
The material in hank shape went into the color shower with wanted alcohol, color Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa arrangement, Glauber's salt and acidic corrosive at 40 C. The temperature is bit by bit expanded to 90 to 95 c inside 45 minutes. The material is run ceaselessly by steel pole for promote 45 minutes. For powerful weariness 1% of formic corrosive is included and labored for 15 minutes. After entire depletion, the material is pulled back, crushed somewhat, washed in warm water took after by frosty water at that point crushed dried in outside. However for better quickness properties winch kicking the bucket machines of 10kg limit ought to be presented here. Here the ability of the dyer/weaver is particularly basic to get the coveted plan which woven in the texture
The way toward weaving includes various exercises like winding, twisting plan setting drafting, marking and weaving. The craftsmans utilized conventional charakha for winding the yarn in notai or bobbin. There is no winding M/C. for this procedure for the most part done by the women. They get Rs. 3.00 for winding a hank.
Warp Preparation :
In the wake of getting silk yarn (2 utilize mulberry silk) by the weavers the yarn is absorbed cool water for no less than 12 hours before degumming. For the most part, for generation of 16 bits of sari, 2 Kgs of silk yarn is required. At that point Degumming is completed for 1 hr. In the wake of flushing the yarn in high temp water and afterward in icy water, the yarn is colored with craved shade. At that point
stick confine winding (Hank stand or move what's more, stick pen or Natai) of colored yarn is done which takes 8-10 days. The hanks so acquired are gone through estimating process (utilizing, browned rice) and twisted to a stick confine, which takes facilitate 8-10days. The yarn on the stick confine is dried. This stick confine process is excessively difficult, it adds a great deal to the cost of the item.
Programmed winders can be acquainted with carry out this occupation, first in exploratory premise
and after that in business premise till subgrouping of ikat process.
Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 17 Utilizing even twisting Drum
done the twisting procedure:
This procedure takes around 4 days.
Subsequent to getting the twist and the twist bar, the Drafting and gouging forms are taken up which takes 2 days. At that point the twist is taken to the linger and different courses of action
for example, heald tie-up, Harnessing of shaded yarn for fringe utilizing, dobby/jacquard are completed on the linger which take 4 days.
Weft arrangement :
Mulberry charkha silk (fiber Malda) are utilized for weft. For16pcs. Of sari, the
weaver get yarn around 5Kgs. be that as it may, the forms are done in staged way. In the bunch, for outlining the sari, Tie and Dye is the customary procedure. For getting outline noticeably and correct to the coveted theme, the weft yarn is handled in staged way, i.e. for 2 pcs. 600 gms and for 4pcs-1200 gms). The weft yarn is accessible in single frame in the market. Along these lines, yarn is first utilized to 3-4 strings by winding onto a stick confine in two phases, which takes 5-8 days. At that point the yarn turned in a nearby procedure, which takes one day. The procedure took after here is
absolutely conventional, manual and difficult moreover. It is fascinating that however the utilized weft yarn at display is accessible in the open market, these weavers don't utilize it so as to 18 Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa stay away from duplication in nature of crude material. Employing or mixing process has sufficient degree for corruption in the nature of silk yarn, which is not seen in the bare eye. Assuming low quality silk yarn is blended in this employing procedure, juts in the resultant yarn create pilling impact amid end utilize. In this manner it is smarter to acquire single yarn in immaculate shape. Be that as it may programmed utilizing machine here likewise can be tentatively acquainted with lessen the as well much extra work cost. The yarn is absorbed water for 8-10hrs preceding degumming. The degumming is done for 1 hr. taken after by flushing with high temp water and afterward cool water. At that point yarn is left to dry inside one two days. The yarn is again made to 2 utilize by twisting on to a stick confine which takes two days
what's more, after that the yarn treated with estimating material (seared rice-lia) in a day and again employed by rewinding on to a stick confine which likewise takes one day and afterward left to dry.
Manual Tying Process :
The yarn is then taken for planning of tie and color with the assistance of these patta (for guaranteeing the width and length of the coveted texture) and wooden casing. The yarn is organized
in kera shape in the wooden edge and tied with wound yarn the parts, which should be left white in the plan. This process is rehashed relying on the number of hues required in the outline. At that point kicking the bucket of yarn is done. Generally Immediate, Acid and Metal complex dyestuffs are utilized as a part of the bunch amid tie and color process. However Metal complex colors are presently generally utilized for its great quickness properties and extensive variety of offers. All
dyestuffs are water-dissolvable. As the name demonstrates, metal part is fused into
Corrosive colors to frame Metal complex colors. Biting the dust is completed in acidic shower.
Khandua Sarees and Fabrics : Tradition and Pride of Orissa 19 In Nuapatna the weavers have a routine with regards to doing the tie-coloring on the Weft i.e Bharani in their nearby dialect. The Warp shaft yarn is for the most part a solitary shading plain colored one, which is done autonomously at every single family unit. However, the fundamental workmanship and expertise is in producing a decent splash-color outline on the weft. The Tie and Dye action for some of the standard ordinary customary themes are being polished by all the weaver family units yet the movement of tie and color for some particular outlines has been taken up by people as an all day deal with cost premise. There are 20 diverse selective Warp dyers and 20 Different Wef